Cairo Chronicles Part 1: Fieldwork & Manuscripts & Conference Conversations
In late June, Ilse Sturkenboom and Theresa Zischkin travelled to Cairo for a rich and multifaceted research trip that combined fieldwork, manuscript studies, and participation in the 20th Ernst Herzfeld Society (EHG) conference. Their time in Egypt was as inspiring as it was intensive, offering fresh insights into Islamic art and architecture, and illuminating the historical and material context of decorated paper in the region.
Mapping the City and Its Layers
The first days were dedicated to fieldwork, beginning with long exploratory walks through Cairo’s urban fabric – from downtown into the heart of the historic city. After passing the iconic Ibn Tulun Mosque and numerous sabils (public fountains), the team made their way to the monumental Sultan Hassan Mosque, and then to its Neo-Mamluk neighbour, the Rifāʿī Mosque. The tour continued to the Citadel, where they visited several mosques, including the Alabaster Mosque, famed for its panels – astonishingly made from alabaster repurposed from the pyramids of Giza.
A special moment came when they attended Friday prayer at the Amir Aqsunqur Mosque, better known as the “Blue Mosque” for its stunning Iznik tile decoration. Pharaonic spolia embedded in thresholds provided compelling traces of Egypt’s deeply layered history. The route then led past Bāb Zuweila to the Museum of Islamic Art, which showcased a breathtaking array of objects, from intricately carved wooden panels and inscribed ceramics to manuscripts featuring decorated paper – an exciting discovery for the project’s aims.
Iconic Sites and Hidden Gems
No trip to Cairo would be complete without visiting the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx – ideally in the early morning, and preferably, as Ilse and Theresa found, via carriage and camelback. But it was the following generous and encyclopaedic six-hour walking tour with Mustafa Tupev from the German Archaeological Institute that truly opened up the city. Starting at al-Azhar and al-Hussain Mosques, they wandered through the bazaar and down al-Muʿizz Street, taking in the architectural marvels of the Qalāwūn Complex, the madrasa and khānqāh of Sultan Barqūq, and the delicate façade of the Aqmar Mosque. At Bāb al-Futūḥ, they marvelled at reused Pharaonic blocks – one featuring a hippo! – before viewing the al-Ḥākim Mosque from above and continuing to Bāb al-Naṣr and the Khānqāh of Baybars al-Gāshankīr. Sincere thanks go to Mustafa for sharing his expertise with such generosity and depth.
The journey through Cairo’s artistic landscape also included a visit to the Mahmoud Mukhtar Museum of modern art and a return to Bāb al-Khalq for the Egyptian National Library Museum. There, they encountered the famed Būstān of 1488, with its exquisite gold-sprinkled margins – a highlight for anyone interested in the history of decorated paper.
Manuscript Research at Dar al-Kutub
The following three days were devoted to focused manuscript research at Dar al-Kutub, located on the Corniche. The experience proved extremely fruitful, with access to an impressive range of materials showcasing coloured, gold-dusted, gold-sprinkled, marbled, and stencilled paper. The team would like to extend heartfelt thanks to the recently appointed Director, Dr. Howayda Kamel, and researcher Hassan Sahel, whose support and assistance were essential. We are also grateful to the wider Dar al-Kutub team for their facilitation of both in-person access and digital copies. With a collection of over 60,000 manuscripts, this is just the beginning – Ilse and Theresa are eager to return and continue exploring with the other team members.
Stay tuned for part 2 about the conference!